**E178 DX3 Basic Assembly Instructions TLDR** |[home](index.md.html)|[syllabus](syllabus.md.html)|[assignments](assignments.md.html)|[labs](labs.md.html)|[final project](finalproject.md.html)|[flight data](FlightData.md.html)|[getting certified](RocketryCertification.md.html)| # First steps - Read through the instructions!! (make sure to sand everything that is going to be epoxied) # Motor Mount assembly - Remember to use gloves when epoxying. - Keep a paper towel close by to wipe off epoxy that went where you didn’t want it to go - Working with JB Weld: - Takes a while to dry - keep a toothpick or a craft stick in the mixing cup to know when it has set - When tying the two shock cords together, I would recommend [this video](https://youtu.be/YHUv-oOMwRA). - Push the shock cord firmly in the hole on the fore centering ring so you don’t have an issue when fitting it into the body tube. - Also, I epoxied the shock cord to the motor mount after I had completed the forward section to allow time for the JB Weld to fully set # Forward Section - Bulkhead assembly: - Dry fit the bulkhead first - Warning: If dremeling off the end of the eyebolt it will be hot - Gluing the bulkhead in place - When marking a line ⅛” in the coupler, insert the base plate and keep it even with the end of the tube and the from the other side trace it. - The base plate is approx ⅛” thick - Gluing the coupler in place: - I made 3 small lines equidistant from each other (so depending on which side was up after I had turned it into place, I still wouldn’t overshoot. - I also did the same at the 1” point so I would know where to epoxy to. This was easier than trying to draw a straight line all the way around the tube - Cutting the nose cone: - Sand it flat by putting the sandpaper on the table and keep the nose cone straight up. It will create a flat edge more quickly and you’ll know where the uneven edge is. # Final Assembly - Inserting the motor mount assembly - To get the epoxy into the motor mount tape a few popsicle sticks together and then mark a line on the popsicle stick with how far in the stick needs to go to spread the epoxy. Way easier than eyeballing it in the moment. - Marking for launch lugs: - I didn’t have an angle iron, so I used the piece of paper used for making the holes in the forward section and lined a mark up between two of the slots for the fins and then used carpenters square to draw a straight line. A meter stick or a rule would also probably work. - Gluing fins: - Dry fit first - To put the fin in, start at the back and rotate it into place - Fin Fillets: - I put on the nose cone to use as a counterweight as I was marking and filleting (and all three fin jigs). - The best method I found for getting the lead on the spoon was to heavily shade a square on a piece of paper with a non-mechanical pencil and rub the edge of the spoon in that. - When it says to pull the spoon, it means with the concave part facing the motor retainer. - Measure out the micro balloons into another mixing cup first and then in a separate mixing cup mix the same volume of epoxy and then add them together (working quickly) - I used a total of 5mL of epoxy and 5mL of microballoons per two fillets. - Launch Lugs: - Either remove the fin jigs or move them out from between the two launch lugs before glueing them in place. Saves you a headache. - Tying the shock cord: - The directions were fantastic. Follow them. ----